Building the Flin Flon Subdivision in HO Scale between The Pas and Flin Flon Manitoba
Shuffling around grain elevators
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I can't decide which blog to put this in so I'll put it in both of them... Got to the link below for more on how the first Manitoba Pool elevator (#1) was rebuilt in 1986: Moving around grain elevators
Canadian National had a long lasting fleet of 40 foot boxcars, some of which lasted until 1996 in grain service. Modelling northern Manitoba in the early 1980's requires a significant number of 40 footers in both grain and general service. Over the past several years I have been building out my fleet of these cars using RTR, kitbashed kits and resin kits. There have also been numerous CN painted models done over the years, with some being relatively accurate while others are stand in models - some call these foobies. First Thing To Do If you want to accurately model any CN steel boxcar your first stop should be to find a copy of Railroad Model Craftsman's August 1993 issue with Stafford Swain's seminal article "Canadian National's 1937 AAR design 40-foot steel boxcars". It covers the entire range of 40 foot steel cars from 1937 to the end of 40' car deliveries in 1957. This is "must read" material. CN Lines has a number of articles on the
Rapido Model Trains recently released their model of the Procor GP20 20,000 gallon general purpose tank car. This has long been on my list of "must have" models for the Hudson Bay Railway. Any photo with a tank car in it from the late 1970's to the 1990's was likely one of these cars. They were used to haul gasoline, diesel and other fuel to various parts of the northern railway network. They were used to stock the fuel tank farm in Churchill that serviced the barges that supplied communities along Hudsons Bay. This required massive numbers of tank cars to travel north. The model from Rapido is very nicely done with etched walkways and nicely rendered fine details. They are pretty much ready to go out of the box, however I want to try adding some weathering to the cars to better represent the prototype. One challenge is that there are not that many photographs of these cars in service in the early 1980's, as much due to the cost of a roll of film as at t
One of my pet peeves is otherwise nicely done models riding on shiny metal wheels - it ruins the effect of all the other work done on the model. And you should NOT use plastic wheelsets - they seem to attract dirt and grime and gum up your track. Swap out the plastic wheels for aftermarket metal wheelsets. Most of my replacement wheelsets are Intermountain, available in boxes of 100 axles. The wheel profile is not the best but they are readily available and are generally in proper gauge or easily adjusted. I have tried other brands but they are hit and miss as far as being readily available locally. I have found that Rapido wheelsets are always too narrow compared to the NMRA, and they are a bugger to regauge. My process for the wheels is fairly simple and gives good results. Below are my go to paints: Vallejo Air Black and Vallejo Game Effects Dry Rust If you want to you can first clean the wheels with 99% (or whatever % you have available) alcohol to clean any oil and dirt
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